Butcher Block Blog

As hardwood butcher block countertops are made from actual solid hardwood they are vulnerable to expansion/contraction across the width of the top. When your butcher block top takes in moisture it expands and thus causes the glue joints to expand (raise) at the same rate as the blocks. The problem is, they dont seem to shrink back down when the butcher block contracts.

This is a simple fix and is a completely natural occurrence. Using 220 grit sandpaper, lightly sand your butcher block until the glue lines are flush again. This is typically accomplished within a few strokes. Re-apply mineral oil. Let sit for 10 minutes and soak in. Wipe off excess mineral oil with a dry cloth and your ready to go. Its just that simple.

Butcher Block Counter Top Installation Guide

Correct installation of your counter top is vital for optimum performance.

The moisture content of butcher block will vary due to the movement of moisture into and out of the wood. Natural humidity (dry

and wet), air conditioning, machines that dispel heat or moisture (e.g. Dishwashers, cooking appliances, etc.) will affect the moisture content of the wood. As moisture in the air increases it is absorbed by the butcher block, and the wood will expand. The butcher block contracts as moisture in the air decreases.

BUTCHER BLOCK, being a natural wood product, will expand and contract across the grain with these changes in humidity. This movement is quite normal. It is usually only minimal and can be allowed in the installation.

SEALING
Good sealing is essential to prevent an abrupt and excessive moisture movement to and from the wood BUTCHER BLOCK must be envelope sealed, i.e. top, bottom, edges and ends. Pay particular attention to the inside of cutouts, especially the grain end. If you

cut on site – reseal the cut area with at least four (4) coats of sealer.

FIXING POSITIONS

Minimum fixing only is required, as self-weight, plumbing, etc will hold down the piece. Ideally, fix into the same strip of wood.

Slotting or oversized holes will also help.

SERVICE CONDITIONS

“The Butcher Block top” counter tops are suitable for interior use only.

Dishwashers, floor mounted vents and hot water systems:

Where appliances have heat acting on the bench top, polystyrene or similar insulation should be installed to cut down heat transference. Provide adequate ventilation.

Sinks, cooktops, cutouts, for posts, etc:

The fitting of sinks, basins, cooktops, etc. must not restrict the bench top from expanding and contracting. Ensure that there is at least one-quarter inch (¼”) clearance all around the appliance. Insulation should be installed around cooktops. Rubberized joint sealant should be used in sink and basin applications.

Vegetable storage:

Where vegetables or other material that are likely to give off moisture are stored under the counter, insulation should be installed

and adequate ventilation provided. Ventilation. Particle board or MDF tops fixed to cabinets should be removed or have large holes cut into them to assist with even and adequate ventilation. Do not attach directly in top of a solid underlayment. Butcher block needs adequate ventilation. Brick walls:

A moisture barrier, such as plastic, should be utilized in situation where “BUTCHER BLOCK” is located adjacent to brickwork or rendered walls to prevent moisture transference. A slight gap should also be left.

Overhang:

If overhangs exceed eight inches (8”), then some form of bracketing should be used for support.

SCREW HOLES

Fixing through framework into the underside of bench should be via a 7/16” clearance

hole and a #10 gauge screw with washer, allowing movement between fixing points.

Holes should be predrilled.

NOTE: Ensure screw is centralized within clearance hole.

“BUTCHER BLOCK” TOPS SHOULD NEVER BE GLUED DOWN

To ensure optimum performance, BUTCHER BLOCK requires protection from the environment by means of seal coatings. Sunlight

breaks down most coatings, exposing the timber and allowing moisture, humidity and heat to act.

STORAGE and HANDLING

BUYER PROTECTION

Before a natural product, your tops are subject to change in atmospheric conditions, and therefore require some care in the handling and storage.

“THE BUTCHER BLOCK TOP” BUTCHER BLOCK COUNTER TOPS are warranted free from manufacturing defects, and the performance of the product is guaranteed, providing the condition relating to handling and storage are adhered to and that fabrication and installation has been performed to The Butcher Block Top recommendations.

Natural wood features and variations in color and texture of the wood and/or laminates are not considered defects.

FABRICATION RECOMMENDATIONS

1. CORNER JOINTS

All edges to be joined together must be true (exact). The recommended corner joints are MITER joints or fully BUTT joints. With miter joints on boards of unequal width, a true miter usually gives the best result as any movement is equalized, and the laminates will be close to matching at the joint.

1.1: Biscuit or tongue the joint. Joints should have “Lamella” biscuits or plywood slip tongues fitted

1.2: Bolt clamp the joint. Do not use towels. Fit bolt clamps (miter bolts) to the underside of all joints: 4” from the front, 6” from the back of miters and 1½” from both sides of butt joints. On wide joints fit an extra clamp midway between the others.

1.3: Butt Joints with opposing grain direction are never to be glued, instead use silicon.

1.4: Miter joints and butt joints with grain running in the same direction should be glued

2. APRONS/DROP-FRONTS/FACIALS.

Fitted to the front edges of bench tops. Must not be glued across the grain. If an apron is to run across the end of the bench top, it should be screwed with a fixing baton, allowing for movement,

or “build up” the end grain by slicing off sections of the bench top end and gluing underneath.

ONSITE STORAGE

On receipt of your top, it is essential that they are to be stored in a way that they are protected from the weather and areas that are subject to extreme changes in humidity. Store flat at least 8” off the floor to allow air to circulate. Do not leave boards leaning against brick or concrete walls as excess moisture pick up is available.

It is essential that BUTCHER BLOCK is fully envelope sealed as soon as possible with at least four coats.

PROBLEM SOLVING

End Splitting: is common with unsealed boards. Repair by filling with Epoxy glue.

Minor Wood Defects: Natural to butcher block. Can be repaired with Wood Putty colored to suit

3. GLUES

Use full strength Epoxy glues for like grain directions and Silicon sealant wherever there is opposing grains.

4. HOLES/CUTOUTS.

Must have a 3/16” clearance on all sides and corners should have a slight radius. The distance between the end of the bench top and a cutout or between cutouts should be at least 4-5”. If this not possible, reinforce the narrow cross grain section by recessing and bluing a piece of similar butcher block into the underside with the grain running in the same direction and position it so that the glue lines are offset to the glue lines on the bench top

A rubberized joint sealant should be used in all sink and basin applications. Holes must be properly sealed with at least four coats of polyurethane. Particular attention should be paid to the end grain.

5. PREPARATION

Any grain checking, tear-out and similar butcher-block blemishes should be filled and sanded (use a wood putty).

Shakes, which have tendency to lift, should be repaired with “5 minute” Epoxy color to match the wood.

6. SANDING

Sand the surface and edges through a suitable range of papers. 120-220 for quick re-surface. 80-120-220 for heavy stain or imperfection removal.

I have come across many posts in regards to resurrecting a foul cutting board or split butcher block but none have seemed to really give a standard answer to the basic questions. What do I finish my cutting board or butcher block with. This is easy. The answer is Pure Mineral Oil. The purpose of a cutting board or butcher block is to cut and or prepare food on. If this is what your board is used for then Pure Mineral Oil is what it should be finished with. Is there an alternative to finishing my cutting board or butcher block with Mineral Oil? Here is where we start to lose everyone. The answer is yes. You can use a Walnut Oil as long as it is fresh Walnut Oil and you have ensured it has not gone rancid while sitting on your shelf. Yes you can use Walnut Oil as it is safe to use when it is to be used immediately. These are the only two treatments I would consider when finishing a cutting board or butcher block surface. This is the way it has been done for a hundred years people. I dont care what your dad said or what your uncle said he used back in the day when he built his cutting board or butcher block. You asked, I answered. PURE MINERAL OIL!
On to another frequently asked question. What can I finish my butcher block countertop with. The same rules apply to countertops when they will be used as a cutting surface. PURE Mineral Oil. If your not going to use your butcher block countertop as a cutting surface then you really are free to use just about anything you want. Poly, Acrylic, Wax and blah blah blah. You get the point. If your not going to cut on your countertops but will still be preparing food directly on your countertops then my recommendation will differ. Any FDA Approved for indirect food contact finish will suffice in this case. There is no need to break all this information down to a science as it has already been done over and over again. These are your answers.
So When your going to use it as a cutting surface then you use mineral oil. When your not going to use it to cut on but will still use it to prepare raw foods then an FDA approved finish should be used. When you only want to look at your countertops then you can use whatever you want.

The in-betweens. Through the years a lot of butcher block manufacturers have developed a couple different types of finishes which most of them still incorporate the use of PURE MINERAL OIL wtih the exception of the Durakryl. Lets see, there’s John Boos Mystery Oil, Emmitts Elixir, Watco Butcher Block Oil, The Good Stuff and something called Durakryl 102. All of these have been specially formulated just for use on cutting boards, butcher blocks and countertops. Keep in mind though that some or all of these are manufacturer applications and they are applied using approved methods. Also the type of finish you will get varies between all of them. All of which are to be used at your own risk. As stated above PURE MINERAL OIL has been used for over a hundred years and is the only proven finish for cutting boards and butcher blocks.

The Butcher Block Top

A butcher block table can help make your kitchen much more efficient:

Built to take a beating, butcher block doubles as a functional chopping surface as well as an eating or serving table. Butcher block is typically made of hard maple, a dense, strong wood that doesn’t add flavor to what you’re chopping on it. It’s cut across the grain so it will wear evenly without warping. Just keep it clean and oil it occasionally; it will last for years.

In the next couple of days we will be blogging some “How-to’s” along with Care and maintenance tips for your butcher block products. Simply fun and informative information on all things butcher block.